On the Road, Again. Or, Was?
Santander, Colombia
My first escape from Bogotá was in October, with a great group of lively and lovely Midwestern ladies [and a couple from the coasts, too 😜], to a finca at a much lower altitude and surrounded by lush green. It was divine to absorb the sunlight and warmth; the only times I actually experience that level of heat is when I am walking home with too heavy of a grocery load, while I am wearing leather jacket and gloves.
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| Passing through Tunja |
While it was only one fleeting, long weekend away from the city, I'd taken advantage of getting to know Bogotá. This city is rad. Ten million people, whom I can gaze upon most of them from my balcony. A lot of stones to uncover. Still, I needed an escape to open air. Cue the February break, what I'll remember as the last vacation opportunity before the Corona.
I made great friends with someone I work with, Yolima, and we went on this trip together. As what I maybe emphasized too-many-a-time in my other recent posts, work occupied a lot of my brain space and life energy. A great thanks to Yoli for planning the entire itinerary, because I failed to carve space in my life to prioritize researching this new country I call home. She'd not been out toward Santander, and I gladly accepted her invitation to travel together.
For a four-day weekend, we packed a lot more activity than I could have imagined. Traveling by land (bus) from Bogota toward Bucaramanga, and air on the return. We'd stop in several places along the way. Almost like a hop-on-and-off tour, except extending some 400 kilometers in displacement. Before any of that, I need to get out of the way: I exposed Yolima to my terrible luck with travel. It's relieving to know that my problems really are my own, but not caused by me either. Our first bus from Bogotá to San Gil, advertized to last six hours, basically broke down and lasted closer to ten. This led to us making more spontaneous decisions about how long we stayed somewhere and head to the next stop. The bus we wanted to board in Cañon Chicamocha to Bucaramanga left 30 minutes ahead of schedule, and the one we ended on left behind schedule. Our flight from Bucaramanga back to Bogotá on Monday night also ended up delayed. Don't be deterred from traveling with me, but possibly book separate transportation than me.
The first destination we were able to enjoy from the comforts of not-a-bus was in Barichara, a charming albeit reticent pueblo boasting whitewashed edifices and colonial architecture. It more or less served as our gateway into Chicamocha Canyon, one of the largest in the world. What was supposed to be an afternoon and quick morning in this town turned into a two-night stay, motivated by our delayed arrival to the town and our awe with how peaceful an inhabited area could be. The sun was full, and few trees to shade us from the immensely powerful radiation falling on us. Looking out and admiring the landscape, I felt a profound connection to the Sierras in Ecuador. The yellows, browns, greens and blues laid out in front of me, here and in Ecuador, were the true inspiration for how I've fashioned my home.
And, finally, Bucaramanga. Whenever I visit a large city for the first time, the same thought pops in my head. "Wow, this is nothing like what I expected... I don't even know what I expected!" In the same fashion as the rest of the trip, we arrived to our lodging late but we were shown such wonderful hospitality. The facilities and amenities exceeded any expectations, and we got to finally got to put our swimwear to use in the jacuzzi, right outside the window to our room. This would turn out to be a huge indication of what to expect from the people and the rest of the city, the next day when we got to explore some.
Bucaramanga is saturated with parks. Combined with the warm and humid (but not dripping) climate, people were gathered and enjoying these public spaces with great vitality. THIS is what I missed about Quito, and what I continue to miss while in Bogotá. Sure, there are some smaller parks. There's a couple of massive parks. But the city really is densely populated and open spaces are prime capital for housing or office development. And it takes a minute to get to those more lush, open, green spaces. Bucaramanga had them in copious supply, so we gladly paced our way through the labyrinth of one way streets and backed-up boulevards to stop at one, then another and another. Almost up until we had to the leave for the airport, to catch a plane we thought would get us home quick and early before returning to work early the next day.
This was one of my favorite trips in a long time. Once this pandemic has passed, I know that I'll have more opportunity to continue turning over each rock, looking around the next corner. I've been cooped up [happily and comfortably] in my apartment for over 70 days, and I can easily continue this for probably several more months with no problem. While I use this next Summer to prepare for work in the next school year, I'll also engage in some self-care and delicately lay out the itinerary for my next great adventure, inspired by the sights and experiences of this one.













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